Raf Simons AW 2002 - Virginia Creeper
Displayed here are shots taken from Raf Simons' autumn/winter 2002 runway show, titled 'Virginia Creeper'. This collection was presented within a woodland setting which reflected and resonated with both the name of the collection of the looks being shown. The title of the collection, 'Virginia creeper', is a Native American plant that grows wildly, and this is what Raf named the collection after, tying in with the theme of nature. Virgina creeper plants are visually beautiful, but when touched, they are actually poisonous to the skin. This whole collection I based around the duality of nature. "Both soothing and cruel, nature is still not totally conquered by mankind. At the same time the forceful beauty of nature continues to be a fascination, for previous as much as today's generation. Even after centuries of industrial progress, these elements of nature maintain their intrigue, mystery and wonder about them."
"Vast and impenetrable woods still put fear into mere mortals. Uncharted swamps serve no real purpose but remain the staple of ominous tales and whispered stories. Poisonous weeds (like the Canadian Virginia Creeper of the collection's title) are a wonderful sight to the eye of the beholder while at the same time cannot be touched or eaten. All said subjects, predators, plants and caprices of nature alike, are isolated, almost separated from modern civilisation."
With this context, you begin to get a better understanding of the collection, and the garments begin to resonate with you on a deeper level, understanding the reasoning behind layering choices, colour pallets and silhouettes. Raf stuck to a very mutual colour pallet on a whole, focusing on shades of greens, browns, beiges and even light blues. These all reflect the natural surrounding of there runway and ring true to the context of the collection, allowing the garments to blend into the environment. I love Simons fascination with oversized silhouettes, exaggerating proportions and elongating cuts. This is something very prevalent within the collection. For my own project, 'beyond the pines', matching my colour pallet with styling choices to the environment around the shoot will be something I consider heavily, along with how the styling reverberates with what surrounds it. Personally, I feel that this runway is a strong reference for my own work, linking to my woodland theme, and title of my proposal thoroughly. These runway shots will be referenced in my test shoot outcomes during commune, where I explore shooting there body in this raw and unforgiving habitat.
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Images from the photography annual 2019
Displayed below are a few scans from the photography annual of 2019. I came across this annual in the library, and after flocking through it, I realised myself becoming inspired ad engaged by certain pages throughout, which really mirrored my initial thoughts on my final project, titled 'Beyond the pines'. Here I have selected some really interesting imagery that I feel correlates to my time on commune and what sort of imagery I am striving to achieve. Firstly, all of these shots are taken in natural, pure surroundings, which I feel effortlessly elevates the images made, due to the natural beauty and innocence of nature. The wonderful clash between this tranquil natural setting, and the unorthodox poses and positions of the models placed within it is really engaging visually to me, and is something that I want to continue exploring during commune through photography. IN the first scan below, the styling choices compliment the 'set' of the photo, and work to blend in and fit to the colour pallet of the grass and foggy sky, making use of beiges, light greens and greys. There is definitely something effective about this choice to merge both the surrounding and there model through garment colour choices, but then separating and highlighting the characters through an asymmetric composition and series of strange poses upon the hillside. The playfulness and theatrical element of their poses contradicts the eerie, yet raw backdrop, which I think works effectively. However, in my opinion, different styling choices could be made in order to create more impact on the viewer, allowing for the characters to have more personality and a sense of presence within the shot. For example, exploring vibrant colours and unique silhouettes that would clash with the backdrop could be more effective. This is something I plan to explore through my own photographic experimentation during commune.
Above and below are some great examples of how the natural landscape can be used and how lighting can be explored in order to construct a deeper narrative and create engaging visual outcomes. For example, utilising how the suns beams cast shapes and shadows through the trees, and using this to illuminate areas of the image you are making. Above is a wonderful example of this, where the photographer has carefully placed the model so that her face is highlighted and her legs, leaving the rest of her body in shadows. Visually, I feel that this is super intriguing, I love how this looks and due to the fact the lighting is all natural, it shows initiative when locating spots top shoot at, which is vital to effective image making. I aim to explore this myself when taking test shots in the woods of the Surrey hills, looking out for locations which will enhance my photographic experiments due to either lighting or there surrounding set. Both of these photos have amazing experimental compositions aswell, using the interesting textures and tones of the floor to shoot the model within. I love this aesthetic of having the model laying within the foliage, becoming engulfed or shrouded by the surrounding, as I feel it makes a dramatic effect, and plays on the idea of how nature can be brutal and unforgiving, overpowering everything else. My concept 'beyond the pines' really looks to explore this idea through image making and set location.
Mounatineering references for beyond the pines design process: Book - Everest 'summit of achievement' by Stephan Venables
After commune, I began to reconsider my project proposal slightly, in order to cater for my other interests throughout foundation so far. I decided that I wanted to incorporate a a design and making process into the project, allowing me to further explore my interest for fashion design, but then still finalising the project with an FCP focused outcome, utilising the garment I end up creating. I plan to keep the rest of the project the same, meaning I will still use a woodland 'pine' setting to shoot my garment, and I want to achieve a series of posters as the final outcome for the project, potentially with a short accompanying 30 second film. After realising I wanted to include this design element into the 'beyond the pines' project, I decided that I made most sense to use this idea of being within the pines and the sports/ activities that we associate with that. For example, mountaineering such as skiing, rock climbing and hiking all take place in an environment where pine trees are most common, that being in the mountains and hills. Therefore, I concluded that the references for my design work would come from looking into mountaineering, and the gear and equipment they utilise to complete such tasks, and using this as shape, silhouette and material reference for a design process, that will eventually result in me physically creating a mountaineering inspired garment. In addition to this, mountaineering sports such as skiing and hiking are sports that are quite close to my heart, as I have been brought up doing them from a young age. This allows me to have a much deeper connection to my project, as it will revolve around sports that I am fond of, and have a special place in my heart. The fact that Im knowledgable in these fields will also help me to direct and understand the equipment and materials on a deeper level, as I have experienced lots of it, and so when it comes to designing, I will have a better understanding of what will physically work and what won't. Carrying on with this, another reason I have chosen to base my design process upon these activities and the gear they utilise is because ever since I have been in London during foundation, I feel like I have not had the time to enjoy my hobbies so much, as the majority of the time I am working on different projects that I don't get the ability to go out explore nature as much as I did before. For me, this is quite a personal thing, and I feel that it is so important that we interact with nature and get away from social media, shopping and city lifestyle from time to time to appreciate a more simplistic and peaceful world. I find it quite sad how I don't get to spend as much time riding bikes in the hills, skiing in the mountains and hiking. These are things that really make me happy and it is hard sometimes to accept that I doth have the ability to do it as much as I used to. Therefore, this design and project is very much based on my own experiences with mountain based sports and being in that beautiful environment, and how in general, people do not seeped enough time interacting with the natural world, and take such things for granted. The title of project 'beyond the pines' has a slightly different meaning ever since I introduced this design element to it, where I will be referencing mountaineering sports for design inspiration. Beyond the pines will refer to the fact that when you are talking part in such mountain sports as climbing and skiing, often you are within and beyond the pine trees, but quite often the heights you may reach are beyond that of which pine trees can even grow. This is a very direct reference to the word beyond the pines. In addition, the name is a reference to the fact that people taking part in these sports are in lots of cases pushing what is physically possible in order to be the best that they can be; going above and 'beyond' to achieve their goals. From this point, the research references will change slightly, to cater for my exploration into mountaineering gear, looking back at old photos, from camp sites to climbing gear. These are all things I will consider when enduring the design process.
Displayed above and below are a range fi scans from the book - Everest 'summit of achievement'. I decided this would be a good place for me to start conducting my research into mountaineering wear and equipment because Everest is the most famous and renowned mountain, where some fo the most memorable climbing experiences have taken place. This book looked way back at the history of Everest, and explores the old equipment used and how this is so different to the current day. I felt really inspired by lots of the base camp images, where the sherpas would have set up camp before trying to climb Everest. The shapes and structures found here are super intriguing, and from a design perspective, are great starting points to reference silhouettes and shapes from, which can later be transferred onto the human form. I'm very much fascinated by this idea of having a sort of frame work or stricture, that supports a lighter weight fabric, such as can be seen on tents today. This is something that I plan to explore further within my design and draping process, as I feel it has potential for some really innovative design work to stem from it. Other notable features found within these images would be things such as lots of bulging silhouettes that are contrasted by tighter fits elsewhere. For example, the use of really bulky oversized shoe silhouettes, contrasted by tighter fitting pants, creating a sort of ballooning effect. This similar idea fo ballooning is noticed in downed puffer trousers and jackets, along with some of the tent imagery, where they are being blown up by the wind. This is a reaccoring theme and something that I may look into during designing.
Above are some more super engaging images extracted from the book. The ones that really caught my attention from design perspective were the profile shots of all the sherpa men in a row, with the huge wooden and wicker structures suspended from their backs and heads. I found myself fascinated with this idea of Balancing weight, and how it is visually presented here is very inspiring to me. The sheer size of the structures balanced and supported onto the backs pn this men is incredible, and in a fashion sense, really experimental and exciting to look at. In some cases the loads these men would carry are larger than them, in both weight and physical size, which is pretty incredible. For me, I feel like I can really draw inspiration from this idea of tactically supporting loads and weighting loads evenly in order for it to sit on the body. I plan to take this notion of balancing weight and explore it physically on the body, during draping processes. This will help me to get an understanding oh how to distribute weights on the body and will also enable me to get a better understanding of finding ways to support loads with as little materials and equipment,ent as possible. From a visual point of view, this is really exciting, and I love the idea of creating large, obscure structures and forms that can sit on the body in various ways, exaggerating silhouette and shapes in order to create a much more dramatic and theatrical result. This is very reminiscent of lots of Craig greens work, where he explore tent like structures on the body. He likely references these sorts of images in his design work also.
Mountaineering reference for design process - My family holiday photos from skiing to hiking trips
Displayed here are a bunch of old photos that I collected from family holidays, to either skiing or hiking locations. I felt it was very necessary to make the references for my design work a little more personal, and to tie in the whole narrative of the project more thoroughly. As I previously mentioned, since being at uni I feel very out of touch with nature and exploring all it has to offer. Growing up, I was surrounded by it and spent the majority off my time out doing sports such as skiing, climbing and mountain biking, which are things I seem to do less and less as a result of high volumes of work to complete. I feel it is so important that people interact with nature and don't take for granted its ability to clear the mind and make you feel better win yourself. Nowadays it is sad how little people go out in nature, in this world of technological advances etc. Therefore, for this very personal reason I decided to based my whole project entirely on this theme off the outdoors, and much of what it entails, from my own experiences. In most of these photos, I was very young, but I have fond memories of these places, and the feeling of carelessness, something I envy nowadays. In terms of inspiration for my project, I won't necessarily take lots of reference from these photos in terms of shape, but more in terms of colour pallet choices and materials. There is a wide range of bright, popping colours seen throughout, quite often incorporating colour blocking and clashing of contrasting colours. This is very retro and sing seen so often today, which is why I feel it may be interesting to explore modern silhouettes and shapes upon the body, but contradict these with vintage colour blocking and retro print. This is just an idea and is something I may explore in more detail later during my development process.
Craig Green MA collection
Displayed here is designer Craig Greens MA Menswear collection from CSM. I have decided to include this in my research for my final project because there is inspiration that can be drawn from it in terms of silhouette, structure and shape, but also, even the exploration with print is a great reference. This collection shows clear links to my own and there are similarities between the two. Here, Craig is experimenting with constructing structures on the human form, creating sorts of scaffolding and forms which do not congenitally fit with the human figure. This in turn, creates a beautiful contrasty, between the slim body of the model and the unique structures that hang from it. I personally find some much beauty in this collection because its a really innovative and exciting way to look at menswear, not focusing on wearable garment outcomes, but rather taking a very conceptual and experimental approach where the body becomes a structure for these artistic fashion forms to be showcased upon. In the collection I can see many links to this common theme of outdoors lifestyle, camping, hiking, climbing etc. which relates to my projects stimulus very closely. I can see that Craig has drawn inspiration from objects such as tents and camping equipment in the creation of these 3D shapes, layering upon one another to build up these beautiful geometric forms. These geometric forms are reminiscent of my own draping process, where I explored positioning hiking equipment on there human form in unusual and unconventional ways, creating a series of exciting shapes and silhouettes that I can reference later in my own design process. One main similarity between my project and this collection is the idea of creating very bulky forms that sit upon the human body, exaggerating proportions and exploring conceptual silhouettes, which Craig has done amazingly here.
An alternative relevance between my work and this collection is the prints Craig explored. As you can see Green referenced the outdoors inspiration, using variations of the classic camouflaged print to colour block onto his garments. This clear correlation between the camping/hiking references used to design the silhouettes and shapes is then reinforced with these cams flsauged prints which relate to nature and being in the outdoors. The colours, greens, oranges and yellows link to leaves and the colour change throughout the seasons of autumn and summer. This is very much a link to the title of my project, 'Beyond the pines' and the idea of being within the foliage of pine trees within a woodland setting.
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Wolfgang Tillmans
Displayed here is work by the likes of Wolfgang Tillmans. I chose to include some of Tillmans work as I am going to use this as a visual reference for my own photographic outcomes for the project. Wolfgang Tillmans photographic compositions and image selection is so visually engaging to me. I absolutely love how he normally never has a single stand alone photo to present at once. Wolfgang usually positions 2 photos next to one another in order to convey a story or complete a narrative. This is such an effective way to present a series of photos, as they resonate with one another and visually portray a sort of short story board, that viewers can follow along with. I love how in many cases, there is a key photo, which is then backed up and accompanied with a more detailed and intricate shot. The way that Tillmans curates these compositions so that the 2 images portray the progression of the shoot and events as they occur is amazing. With my own project, I may decide to take inspiration from this concept of using multiple images to complete or depict a larger story. I may choose to have the main portrait shot, followed up with the intricate and intimate details that arn't so easily noticed at first glance. This would result in a much more well rounded and descriptive visual output.
Another link to my current ideas for my project and Tillmans work is that, often, he shoots in natural surroundings, like portrayed above. I feel that this is a strong example of how you can compose a model within a surrounding in order to create a powerful image, out of something that isn't necessarily that interesting at first glance. These are great reference for how I will explore positioning my model in a woodland surrounding and using camera angles and lighting to create engaging imagery. for example, Tillmans shots at a low angle to elongate the model body, creating a more dramatic and overpowering effect, mirroring the height of the trees in the back ground. I plan to use this effect to create drama in my own photos during commune. Also, I want to explore how natural light can radiate through trees and cast shapes on the models figure, highlighting unusual areas of the figure. There is something innocent yet empowering about Tillmans photography, which I love. I feel like his model choices have a very pure and androgynous aesthetic, which when placed in a pure setting like in a woods, there is a sense of familiarity, yet the styling choices contrast this, which creates quite a dramatic image. I aim to explore this clash in some of my on image making, using styling to contradict the surroundings during commune.
images from Hesperios journal fall 2016
Portrayed here are some scans from the Hesperios journal fall 2016 edition. These are some of the pages that really caught my eye and grabbed my attention when I was looking through the journal, and I felt that they were very much relatable to my project and current ideas for 'Beyond the pines'. Firstly, I was instantly fascinated with how these shots were displayed on the pages, before even being excited by the imagery. There is something really effective about leaving lots of negative space around and image. I feel it helps the image to breath and narrate the story more throughly, meaning that there viewer can get a better understanding of what is being depicted. I also believe that the image choice for the double spread pages works super effectively. Having 2 separate images, in their own spaces that aid one another in completing the context of the shots is really engaging to me. I feel like there is a main shot, then an accompanying image that enhances the effects of what is happening within it. I will explore this notion of capturing supporting imagery to enhance the context and narrative of the shots. For example, I plan to have a main image, that I will place side by side with a close up shot of a small detail, completing the story of the photos. This is something else that I looked into recently, with Wolfgang Tillmans photographic style. These styles of presenting imagery shown are strong references for how I aim to showcase my commune test shots within my sketchbook pages, making use of the blank negative areas surrounding images, and also thinking about scale and composition in order to most effectively depict the story.
Raf Simons spring 2016 campaign ( shot by Willy Vanderperre)
These are some amazing shots by photographer Willy Vanderperre for Raf Simons spring summer 2016 collection. Right away there are some very obvious links that reference my 'beyond the pines' project, being that these are shot within a park, with a tree top back drop. My 'beyond the pines' project refers directly to pine trees. I think pine trees have such beauty, and I wanted to explore utilising this pine aesthetic to capture my model within, as I feel there is a certain eeriness and mystical feel around the idea of being within a misty pine tree forest. The fact the pines are forever green and don't change from season to season like other trees is really interesting to me, and this gives pine trees a sense of power and immortality which I feel can make them seem quite intimidating. Above, a mixture of the regular and pine trees engulfs the backdrop, and makes for a contrast against the light, flowing fabrics of the garments. Visually, exploring having the models face obscured by something, in this case a mask, is something that I want to explore, as I feel it allows for the image to focus on the styling choices and the locations utilised, rather than the beauty of the model. In this case, it has worked super effectively, conjoined with this monochromatic black and white aesthetic. physically having the contrast between the plain white back drop of the right image and the forest like setting of the left image is another strong clash, which in this case works well in my opinion. The studio setting of the right hand shot helps to accommodate for the branding, allowing it to be engulfed by the tonal back drop. I Plan go explore this idea fo having a close up profile shot side by side with a full body image, allowing for different perspectives to be shown, complimenting the images with one another. Below is a really great reference for how image presentation I super important. This is simply exploring splitting the image in 2 halves and composing them with a gap in between. Although this is very straight forward, it is visually really intriguing, and gives the image a more engaging aesthetic than it would have had as a stand alone shot. The break in the shot compliments the whites and monochromatic vibe of the image, along with adding an element of design that is effortlessly created. I will explore presenting my images in various formats in order to achieve the most effective output for them.
Mountaineering reference for design process - Book: Yosemite in the fifties
Mountaineering reference for design process - Book: The encyclopaedia of extreme sports
Here are a few scanned pages from the encyclopaedia of extreme sports. Here, I was focusing more on collecting colour pallets and silhouettes that I can reference in my design process. I find the old classic ski wear really exciting in terms of colour. The use of contrasting and colour blocked tones is super exciting visually, and playful at the same time. With all of the old mountaineering reference images form Everest etc, there is very much a muted, earthy colour pallet, as these neons and vibrant fabrics were non existent at that time. Although I love the idea of just exploring shape and form, not worrying about print and colour, I also feel that sometimes it can be a little boring and not eye catching enough in terms of fashion design. I feel that I will take inspiration form these wacky colours in my material choices, to reference some of the things I wore growing up going skiing in the early 2000's. In addition, I love the silhouettes created by stretching the tight spandex material over the top of a bulky ski boot, creating a bulged form. This is really cool in my opinion, the transition from skin tight to oversized. I may take this motif and explore it in different ways on the body, not just around the leg and foot region. For example, stretching a fabric over a large structure that is hung from the body to create a streamline yet bulky silhouette. More so, this reoccurring motif of overly engineering rope and harness systems is really interesting. I feel that this very utilitarian and practical aspect of all the gear used in these sports is something that I can experiment with in my own work. I visually love the idea of having lots of rope tied around the body. It gives the look layers, and textures, along with sticking to this utilitarian feel.
mountaineering gear Hardwear and shape references
In this block are a selection of images taken from old mountaineering gear found in my grandparents house and in my own attic. This is just some of the equipment we have that I will use to extract shape from and drape on the body. These will be the basis of the shape production process and I will use these to create silhouettes on the body which will in turn become even dual design ideas for a garment. Here I have things such as climbing harnesses and rope, ski and fury boots, various sized hiking backpacks and sleeping bags etc. There is a really diverse and interesting range of shapes that can be extracted form this gear, along with potential material ideas and colours. I feel that the hiking back packs have a lot of potential to draw design inspiration from. I love how over engineered they are, with an exaggerated amount of step and fastening systems, means that they can support multiple things, and volume can be added to the outside of the bag via these fastenings. To me, this is really visually exciting, having a large volume of gear hanging from the bag, adding to its already bulky and over sized aesthetic. When developing designs, this notion of over engineering to ensure absolute safety and security is something I may explore. It is prevalent in all of the gear I have researched into, and visually, this aesthetic of reinforcing and supporting is very engaging. I feel that the hiking backpack will be a staple piece of equipment that will inspire my designs, from the shapes extracted from it, to the use of buckles and webbing etc. Even this idea ion giving support and harnessing at the waist could be played with in various ways.
Rick Owens ss19 (Babel) runway
Displayed here are a select few images form the ss19 rick Owens runway titled 'BABEL'. This collection saw some really conceptual and innovative looking design work, where rick really explore this reoccurring theme of creating structures and forms that fit upon the human body. I have chosen 3 images that I felt reflected my project the most and the current references I have been looking into, being camping, hiking and mountaineering. For me, I get ` real sense that Rick had similar ideas when designing these looks. These scaffolding like structures are very reminiscent of tent structures, where thin rods or poles are conjoined in the creation of 3D geometric forms, which act as the skeleton for the fabrics to be draped and explored upon. This is a great example of exaggerating silhouettes for dramatic effect, as rick does it so tastefully and here. The outfits are really over the top but at the same time, there is elegance and craftsman ship that can be greatly appreciated.
"closing garments—wearable tents—which were inspired by the Russian Constructivist designs Owens had been considering as he built the collection. “They’re nylon parkas,” said the designer, “and they are going to be shipped as nylon parkas, with the poles separately. So you can build them if you want to. But what you are going to see on the hanger is a nice, soft nylon parka—the poles represent what this parka can be. That’s the idea of hope; that is what the poles represent in a way.”
For me, I feel that Im inspired by this very innovative way of exploring shape on the body. In may own project, I plan to get very experimental with my draping process, where I want to construct dramatic shapes, exaggerate silhouettes and make real 3D designs on the body, which I can then use as inspiration for my designs later on.
Christo's early art works
One big inspiration of mine is the renowned artist, Christo. Christo was way ahead of his time, paving the way fo contemporary art work as we know it today. Taking an extremely conceptual approach, Christo explored wrapping, engulfing and tying everyday objects in distressed and weathered fabrics and materials, using old rope and string to fasten them in obscure looking forms. Through this process, Christo would transform mundane objects such as magazines or armchairs, and transform them into conceptual artworks, through the creation of intriguing silhouettes, shapes and textures. These photos are from some of Christos earlier works, before marrying artist Jeanne-claude. I find Christo's early work much more exciting then his ambitious later works, where he wrapped whole coast lines and buildings. This is due to the fact I love the attention to detail on the smaller scale pieces, there is so much character and personality in these outcomes, and due to the smaller size, the intricacy is beautiful, which you don't really notice on the large scale work as much. I have decided to reference Christo's early work in my project because there is defiantly a strong link between this and the aesthetic associated with hiking and camping gear, which I am inspired by. The dramatic use of rope and this idea of fastening things securely is very relevant between both, and visually, these images shown really remind me of pictures of rock climbers equipment and hiking gear, where there would be lots of rope all wrapped around the body or backpacks. Similarly, visually, these photos remind me of puffer jackets, seen in some of my earlier research into ld Everest photos etc. The idea of having material cinched in which creates a bulging to bubbling effect is extremely engaging to me. I saw this as a reoccurring theme looking at climbing outfits, and sleeping bags etc. This is then continued here, with a completely different research reference, yet visually, they share lots of similarities.